You can if you look closely you can see kind of where the dark soil transitions into the harder clay soil at about a foot deep so we went a good 24 inches deep to get right down so that the footing is below the surface and we added a about 4 or 5 inches of road base crush rock tamp that down that allows us to have a nice level bottom in the in the hole and because I’m lazy and I don’t want to build a wood footing I just buy these elephant foot whatever they are pre-made footings 24 inch. Drop that in the hole. Center it where you want it the one thing about these flared footings is that they really want to float up on you so when you before you pour like once you have the footing set you need to backfill like almost right up to the neck of this thing and pack that down or else the concrete’s going to want to just lift this thing right up to the surface. I started pouring one time and they were all starting to float up to the surfaces it was a nightmare and you’re probably thinking.
The next step is to add a sono tube one of those cardboard tubes that comes on here get you up out of grade but samurai like to do things a little bit differently so what we’re going to do is take a look at this. So to keep with the samurai style theme here you can see I’ve got this Boulder and I’m going to sit this on top of the wet concrete and kind of scribe the top of this plastic shoot that the boldest sits nice and even on there then I’m going to drill a hole through the stone and wet dowel this rod through the stone. I’m going to bend a hook on the end set that down into the concrete all-in-one unit and have this rod epoxied in the stone so that they all basically are cast together and then I’m going to scribe the post for my deck onto this rock now this cut is kind of an ancient tradition using a lot of cultures but especially the Japanese temple building.
So they would dig a big hole fill it with stones, pack it down they didn’t have concrete obviously and then they would have a stone that their post would sit directly on and so then when the water comes down the post the stone is round so the water drains away from the post so it works really well for preserving the wood from your post keeping moisture away from it and it looks really beautiful too. You don’t have some ugly round sono tube concrete thing jutting out of the ground just ties it ties the building together with nature really beautifully. When you’re wanting to do a square off your building say you’re doing some footing for a covered porch or whatever and your footings are within 8 feet of your building an easy way to square off of your building without having to set up all sorts of string lines and stuff is just use a sheet of plywood if you got to scrap sheet.
It’s nice when they’re cut kind of on a diagonal like this so you got four feet and an eight and you could always rely on a sheet of plywood because plywood factories if any factory needs to make sure their product is square it’s the plywood factory because if they didn’t make their sheets perfectly square they be hearing about it awfully quick right. So I just set that against the foundation there. Try and hold it up level then I just measure on my plywood where I want my center of my footing to be make a mark is you know measure off of that bing bang boom you’re good to go so here’s the plan we got our footing filled up to the top here have kind of notch the edge of the plastic here to the rock sits down evenly on the footing what I’m going to do is we’re going to pour a little puddle just in here and then I’m going to cast the rock into that puddle so that I get a really good kind of form fit don’t have any gaps or air pockets in here.
I don’t care if it’s a little bit of soupy concrete around the edge that breaks away it doesn’t really matter cause the weight is going through the rock onto this footing I just want to get a really nice seal to this footing so pour a little puddle in there like that so I don’t really care if this pin is plumb at the moment what I want to have is the rock sloping away so any water that comes down is going to hit the rock is going to drain away and once the concrete sets before I put my post on here and scribe it on I can just hit this with a hammer and plumb it out it’ll bend no problem. Not that this amount of rod into the concrete would ever pull out but it’s always good to bend a bit of a hook on it. So the amount of pressure it would take the pull that out as opposed to a straight rod is a lot more I don’t know the exact science but I just know that makes it stronger Orient it the way we want.
There it go, the post is in, the post is plumb. Don’t overcomplicate building guys, you’re just making stuff straight and level square really geometry is not that complicated. I got my scribe here this is the Veritas log building scribe, it’s made specifically for scribing you know big logs for building big log homes but it works for scribing anything and the pin on here has got to hook edge and a straightedge so straight point is used for just doing compass work like drawing circles arches and stuff and then this little hooked edge is made for scribing so that you can get down close and it will follow the contour of whatever you’re scribing whether it’s the plaster wall or column or a rock.
So you put that facing down and then you want to measure your longest gap wherever your biggest gap is right so my back corners touching the rock over here in the front corner here that’s the largest gap so you set your compass to meet that gap and you want to be holding your scribe or compass I kind of just call stuff a hundred different things as you know You want to get it level.